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How to Keep Your Youth – or get it back!
By Danné Montague-King
Never before in history has the quest for youth and the body beautiful been more predominant as now. Looking at the plethora of advertisements in magazines for miracle treatments is one indicator of trend.
Physicians and therapists however, would not be advertising so heavily if there was little demand for these services—what the public wants, it gets. But mainly the current gay and straight public want one thing. Results and value for money spent.
Oddly enough, the cells of the skin and body are not programmed to die at all. They are programmed by nature to survive as long as possible. If given the right environment for survival which includes the right chemistry given to the cells on a daily basis, signs of ageing, acne, sagging body skin and even scars can be revised to an incredible degree. But there is no ONE treatment or magic bullet product that will do this.
When we look in the mirror and view lines, wrinkles just starting, blemishes and hyperpigmentation, we are really looking at defence mechanisms of the skin. We have all seen older men in shower rooms at fitness centres who have faces that look as if they fell asleep on a chenille bedspread, necks hanging in Austrian swags and loose, crêpey body skin. But 90% of the time the skin on their buttocks is much smoother, whiter and younger looking than everywhere else.
We know the reason for this, the glutes are not as exposed to environmental attack such as sun damage and free radicals as the other exposed areas of the face and body are. But the analogy is’ The skin on the gluts show their real age and also demonstrate how the body is perfectly willing to display newer and younger skin at any time if given the right environment and chemistry. The "old” looking parts are simply skin trying to defend itself under attack. This means dead skin cells do not exfoliate (come off) naturally every two weeks.
Eventually they build up like an armour plate barrier against further attacks. At this point, all the other cell activities slow down to a crawl. This includes the secretive glands that supply us with natural moisture when we were younger. It also means that the Langerhans cells, the immune system of the skin, is compromised and irregular melanogenisis (pigmentation) changes our skin colour from smooth and even in tone, to blotchy and coarse looking.
After age 30, there is more dead cell material than new cell proliferation and we visibly seem to age.
The term Skin Revision means to “revise skin back to the way it was originally meant to be (as in the skin on the old man’s glutes). This can be done, but it is not possible through any one modality such as Microdermabrasion, photo facials, acid peels or laser. All of these approaches have to do with “remove” or the word peel. Using the word peel in describing a skin treatment is actually a misnomer. Our skin is not in tort-like layers like an onion that can just be peeled off and voila! New skin! Viewed under an electron microscope a section of skin appears as a series of hills and valleys, new cells and old cells constantly shifting and changing. In order to revise the skin back to a youthful functioning organ, we must treat it with a four-part concept;
REMOVE - What Are We Removing?
Certainly all the redundant dead and dying cells must be removed so that the underlying baby cells can be worked with and maintained. This also includes old wax plugs in the pores of the skin from dried up sebum (hence large pores). Other impurities and damaging radicals must also be removed. The best modalities to do this are;
1. Enzyme Treatments
Enzymes are nature’s biological catalysts. They create rapid changes in tissue without themselves changing—sort of like an orchestra leader. In skin revision, there are enzymes that carry messages across cell membranes, telling them what to do. Other enzymes digest millions of times their own weight in dead protein, carbohydrates and fats (old skin cells , dried sebum and excess glucose)Still other enzyme groups fire motor neurons in a smooth, asynchronous movement across facial muscles, strengthening them dramatically. As there is not pH factor with enzyme treatments there is few contraindications possible. Working on the reverse osmosis principle, enzymes are very powerful in revising all types of skin conditions. Don’t let anyone tell you that enzymes are huge protein molecules too big to penetrate the skin. Enzymes work by initiating other molecules to act in the skin. They use proteins at certain times, but they are not protein molecules any more than a light bulb is electricity.
2. Using Acids and Other Ph Factors
Apply acids to the skin removes dead cells by HARDENING the epidermis to the point that the dead cells become very brittle and kind of “pop” off the surface of the skin. This is advisable as a preparatory treatment to using enzymes. Acids act like a door opener for enzymes with the exception of Alpha Hydroxy Acids.
3. Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Probably the most over exposed and improperly used medium for skin care in the 1980’d and early 1990’s. During these years of the Acid Reign everybody was selling mass amounts of AHA’s in department stores, infomercials and in professional clinics. As a professionals tool, Malic, Glycolic, Lactic and Citric acids, properly formulated and professionally applied in a certain way can be highly effective as a removal system. But AHA’s should have never been issued to the general public as a home use product. The reason being; AHA’s are hygroscopic acids, meaning that they work off water or moisture. When applied to dead skin cells, they pull available moisture up into cells until the cells overload like a balloon with too much air. The cells then burst and the fragments detach from the skin. Professionally this is desirable, but continued use of products containing these acids at home will utilize ALL the available moisture in the skin, ultimately resulting in dehydrated and acid-hardened skins.
As this down-side to AHA’s became more obvious, huge cosmetic companies started to withdraw their previous glowing promises of the powers of AHA. It is still useful however, in the hands of professionals.
4. Other pH Factors
Applying a modality to the skin that takes it to the other, more alkaline side of the pH scale SOFTENS skin cells upon contact. This is a preferred treatment for acne, folliculitis (razor bumps, especially on Black men) and any condition that involves excess hair. Of course bringing the skin to pH 12 can dissolve any protein structure on the skin in less than 5 minutes—including old, dead cells and plugged hair follicles. But this treatment requires great skill on the part of the practitioner giving the treatment as alkaline burns can happen if the skin is not taken back to it’s normal pH right after the treatment. Still, this is a highly effective and versatile treatment
5. Mechanical Removal
This would involve the over-hyped microdermabrader. I am sorry to say that myself and a team of European Doctors launched the very first microdermabrader for skin care in the USA several years ago at a Las Vegas Aesthetics Convention. The original inventor of the microdermabrader, Mattioli Engineering in Florence, Italy, designed the very first machine several years ago for the medical profession in Europe as an alternative to conventional dermabrasion with a diamond wheel or wire brush that, at high speed revolutions, literally flayed the skin from the patient’s face. The field of blood during this procedure was so copious that the physician could only do small areas at a time, resulting in an uneven skin tone and texture many times.
Mattioli designed a special hand piece that shot out a natural, Corundum crystal at a high speed that removed skin cells down to the blood field and then quickly sucked up the cells and blood into another tube, allowing the doctor to abrade a much larger area of skin at one time.
The first unit called the Harvey Crystal was very popular in Europe for awhile and mildly acknowledged in the USA. But when Mattioli decided that they could lower the power of the machine (the compression) to a point where it did not go down to the blood field, a whole new market opened up. Now the machine could be used by Beauty Therapists and Estheticians without medical qualifications. When our team demonstrated this in Las Vegas, the American Aestheticians attending the conference went wild. They had never seen such a thing before. I n ever really thought that microdermabrasion would take off like it did however, given it’s limitations of what it can actually do. But once I saw it written up in the tabloids as a “Power Peel” and promised to remove everything you did not want on your skin painlessly and during your lunch break, I knew it would become the latest buzz gimmick going.
It has its place as a tool to remove dead cells from the skin. We have used it for around 8 years overseas a sort of a preparatory treatment for other treatments such as enzymes. It is also effective when used with other modalities on stretch marks and raised scars, but over use can lead to thinning skin that is more susceptible to sun damage. There is no chemical ion taking place with microdermabrasion, no fundamental changes in the skin cells. It mechanically scrapes off dead skin cells – that is all.
Here is where the real work for the Skin Specialist begins and chemistry becomes state-of-the-art.
Living cells of the skin do not accept anything they do not recognise. The very chemistry the body requires to operate at maximum performance is the chemistry that must be used in skin revision that really works.
This is not brought about by coloured lights, spraying oxygen on the face or the use of oxygen crèmes (peroxide in a crème base) or electrical stimulation that makes your muscles jump and twitch. There is no solid research that shows any of these methods does much of anything tangible, although the theories sound nice.
The first step in helping the body to rebuild its skin is to replicate nature’s own moisture, the Acid Mantle. This is a blend of sebum and sudoriferous secretions supplied when we are young by our own skin glands.
As we age and the dead cells build up on the surface, these secretions rise to the surface less and less until we finally end up with what we see as dry, lined and wrinkled skin. There is no such thing as a moisturiser really. In fact this term was created by a Madison Avenue advertising firm in 1960 to sell beauty crèmes. Crèmes do not moisturise, they mainly grease the dead cell build-up to that it does not feel dry and cracked.
But we are removing this build up, remember? So how do we keep the skin soft and supple? We do this by simply replicating the natural acid mantle. It takes two steps to do this. The first step is to initate sudoriferous secretion (sweat) by spraying an herbal based water on the face and body close in chemical composition to the natural secretion our skin made when we were younger.
The second step is to OCCLUDE the water into the skin by applying a fractionated oil (imitating sebum) over the entire, damp skin. A micelised vitamin E oil is best for this. Now we have our own acid mantle back as nature intended.
Lastly we apply a transdermally formulated protein crème that is soluble in water. Transdermal crèmes are formulated to store in the shunts of the skin and deliver protein, other amino acids, co-enzymes and vitamins systemically into the skin for hours at a time. The “shunts of the skin” is a scientific term describing the openings in the skin. This includes the opening to the sebaceous glands and the hair follicle. Through these openings and even intercellularly, there are many pathways into the skin.
Now the new cells have the goodies that they recognise and happily stay alive and younger longer.
Is it too soon or too late to fight ageing? What Happens to Your Skin As you get older?
By Danné Montague-King
Time waits for no woman and whatever age you are, now is the time to wage war on those lines and wrinkles.
This is a stable time for skin: it is still plump but compared to your teens, dead skin cells are not shed as quickly. Already the process is slower than the ideal 28-day cycle and the production of collagen that makes your skin look firm and elastin, the springy stuff, slows after the age of 25.
The best advice in your 20s is to stop smoking and always wear a decent sunscreen all year round. Proper cleansing and moisturising and a mask once a week at home with a Danné facial treatment every three months will help the skin function properly and age better.'
Cell turnover slows down and dead cells fill the outer layer, which is worsened by sun, pollution, air conditioning and stress. Collagen fibres are not as meshed as before and elastin coils slacken. Smiling and frowning cause fat deep in the skin to be pushed into the trenches, forming wrinkles. Dr Danné Montague-King, the California-based dermatologist responsible for smoothing Brad Pitt's acne scars (oh yes), suggests mild peeling, Vitamin C creams to arm the skin against environmental attack, plus treatments that increase blood and lymphatic flow. 'At this age muscles start to relax and lose their tone,' says Dr King, 'so facial exercises will help.'
Sebum production is greatly reduced and dead skin cells hang around longer, causing the skin to look grey, dull and patchy. Expression lines are clearly visible. The deep layers of the skin (the dermis) are less able to support the blood vessels, resulting in thread veins. 'Regular facial treatments are a must to increase skin brightness and help it function to the best of its ability,' says Dr King.
The result of sun damage is visible – wrinkles, age spots, spider veil and skin tags. Less oestrogen means sebum production slows down and the skin becomes very dry. HRT can help with this. Vitamin A creams can have an ageing effect. This may be the time that you start thinking about plastic surgery but there is much that can be done in clinic to delay surgery.
Ageing Is Not Graceful
Fifty years ago men and women were taught to age gracefully. BUT VERY FEW MANAGED IT!
In the 1990’s medical science and nutritional awareness are keeping people alive longer and eager to embrace a good quality of life by looking young as well as feeling young.
Since 1979 the DANNÉ method of Natural Skin Revision has been giving men and women around the World that quality of life. Now it is possible for your mirror to lie to you - as far as how old you look and how long you want to look younger.
Let our qualified paramedical dermal technicians diagnose your individual needs and create a programme designed to fit your career, lifestyle and budget. For whatever reason you want to look ten years younger, let DANNÉ SKIN and BODY clinics be your guide to a younger looking future!
SKIN REVISION TREATMENTS AVAILABLE:
- Ageing – Sun damaged skins, Severe and mild pigmentation problems on face, hands, neck and decollate.
- Deep lines and wine wrinkles
- Marionette lines around the mouth
- Post acne scars
- Skin-tags and burlocks
- Excess cellulites (sagging, dimpled body skin)
Pre and post-plastic surgery treatments available – we will work with your surgeon or assist you to find one.
Make an appointment today for your Comprehensive Skin Consultation
We are able to give the very best anti ageing treatments available; depending on the condition of the skin we would set out a programme, which would help such concerns as:
- Fine and Deep Lines
- Uneven Skin Tones
- Sun Damage
- Hyper pigmentation
- Skin Tightening
- Skin rejuvenation and Skin Health
The treatments would be individual to each client/patient would include a series of progress treatments, we would use the necessary modalities for the condition, maybe some of these would be in combination to achieve the desired results, such as Paramedical Skin Revision, Laser/IPL, Dermabrasion, Fillers, Botox or DermaRoller.
A full consultation is necessary for each treatment Also Home prescription will be prescribed.
Our Danne Harley Street Clinic provides anti ageing treatments throughout London, Berkshire, Essex, Hertfordshire, Kent, Middlesex and Surrey. Call 020 7291 4449 for more information.